Category Archives: Home inspections

The importance of local building codes & home inspections

Home inspectionHere’s another helpful tip for home buyers. When you get into contract on your next home, one of the first things you’ll need to do is contact a home inspector to set up a time for a home inspection. Your Realtor® may give you a few names on their suggested list or you may get the info from a friend or co-worker.

Have you thought about how you will know to select a “good” inspector? Or are you going to shop based only on price and availability? Will you be asking for credentials? Did you know that a home inspector in Ohio doesn’t have a license or any monitoring as to their credibility?

While I know money can be tight when buying a home, please don’t shop based on price! You’ll get what you pay for, and it could prove to be “penny-wise, pound-foolish”. You want to select someone that absolutely knows what they’re doing because it can cost you dearly later if the inspector does a poor job.

When interviewing the inspectors, there is an area of questioning that you might not consider, but should. Ask them which county they do most of their inspections. If that county doesn’t match the county of the home you’re buying, ask them how familiar they are with the building codes of the county the home is in. If the inspector isn’t all that familiar with your county, they may answer in a round-about way. Put a red-flag by this person’s name.

In central Ohio, each county has its own building codes. Some counties have much tougher codes than others. You want your inspector to do the inspection based on the COUNTY’S codes, not on the more general STATE codes. It’s also helpful if the inspector is knowledgeable enough to know what codes were in the past.

Codes change over the years, and it’s important for the inspector to know if the home “met the code of the day” when the home was built. For instance, consider that the home may have met the electrical or plumbing codes when it was built, but improvements in materials since have resulted in code changes. The inspector should know which codes are considered “grandfathered”. As a buyer, you shouldn’t expect a seller to bring everything up to current codes IF the work was done correctly at the time and passed inspection by the county.

In line with this topic – and your inspector can guide you here – watch for DIY work. Some homeowners may think they are more of a handyman than they really are, and will do the work themselves without obtaining a building permit. The Residential Property Disclosure Form, that the seller must complete, has a question that addresses this building permit issue.

TRUE STORY: I showed a FSBO to a buyer. The owner had finished his basement and was very proud of the work he had done. After he was done telling us all about it, I asked if he had obtained building permits for the work. He answered, “No. Those permits are just a way for the County to make money.” WHOOPS! – wrong answer. Plant a big red flag on this home.

Here are some other articles I’ve written about the home inspection process:

Copyright © 2010. Elaine Reese, Real Living HER. Reproduction of any portion of this blog post or the images is prohibited by the Digital Millennium Copyright Act. If this post is being viewed on any site other than www.ReesesPiecesOfRealEstate.com then the material has been stolen without permission. Violators will be reported.

The grass is always greener …

Home buyers have it so much easier today. There are fewer surprises for them once they move in.

The first home I bought as a “we”, was in 1972. It was not customary to have home inspections then. You bought, then when the surprises hit, you considered it a function of home ownership.

Our first home was a small 3BR ranch on ¾ acres. It was just outside the city limits therefore it had a septic system. The leach lines were tiled to the back of the yard. The problem was that the back of the yard was sloped upward … meaning it was higher than the house … AND higher than the septic tank.

S**T DOESN’T FLOW UPHILL

Grass is greener over the septic tankAs you can imagine, this caused problems. The previous owner had planted a willow shrub “downstream” of the septic tank. As with all willows, they LOVE moisture and will direct their roots to the “water”. (I use the term “water” loosely here.)

We only lived in the home 4 years, but that willow shrub quadrupled in size. Just like Erma Brombeck’s book, “The grass is always greener over the septic tank”, our lawn was always greener in that section of the yard. This old photo shows the green grass leading to the willow. The leach lines actually ran uphill to the left of this area, and the grass WASN’T greener over the leach lines.

Rural septic systems have improved immensely in the years since. There are more leach lines and owners can flip a switch to use half the lines for a few months, then switch to use the other half to allow the previous lines to do their proper filtering. Some homes have an aeration system which doesn’t require leach lines and processes the “contents” so thoroughly that the outflow is clean enough to drain into the open land, such as a ravine. (They say the water is clean enough to drink, but I think I’ll pass on that.) Then there is the “mound” system which is above ground and quite involved in how it must be built.

I must say these new systems, while better, wouldn’t be nearly as much fun or provide as much joking within the family and our friends, as watching the willow double in size every year.

FUTURE ARTICLES ON THIS “HANDYMAN’s DREAM HOME”:

  • Outflow pipe from a sump pump should be longer than 1-foot to avoid burning up the motor & flooding the basement during a hard rain.
  • Why a laundry chute shouldn’t dump the clothes on the furnace.
  • Why burgundy carpet is a bad thing for kitchen floors.
  • Think twice before you decide to paint the basement ceiling black.

Copyright © 2009. Elaine Reese, Real Living HER. Reproduction of any portion of this blog post or the images is prohibited by the Digital Millennium Copyright Act. If this post is being viewed on any site other than www.ReesesPiecesOfRealEstate.com then the material has been stolen without permission. Violators will be reported.

Radon Testing is common in central Ohio

One of the inspections home buyers usually schedule in central Ohio is a test for radon. Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas produced by the breakdown of uranium in soil, rock and water. The test is done during the inspection phase of the Purchase Contract. The test will cost the buyer between $110 to $150, depending upon the company the buyer hires to do the test.

The inspector will place a small testing device (silver box in photo) in the basement for a 48-hour period. The device will periodically sample the air. At the end of the test, it will produce a graph of the readings, then average them for each of the two 24-hours periods. The overall average is then used to determine whether mitigation is recommended. The EPA suggests that people not have long-term exposure to radon readings at or above 4.0pCi/L. (non-scientific people shorten this to “4 pico curies”.)

If the reading suggests mitigation, then a company is hired that does such work. Costs vary according to the layout and size of the basement and the subsequent amount of materials required. The least expensive that I’ve seen a mitigation cost is around $1000.

In doing the mitigation, the company will seal the sump pump with a special cover, cover any crawl space with heavy plastic and perhaps, caulk cracks in the concrete floor. As shown in this photo, a plastic pipe will run from the pump to an exterior wall, then be extended to the exterior.

On the outside a fan will be installed that will be sucking out the air from the spaces that are likely to be contributing to radon entering the home. This is primarily the sump pump but a pipe may also be installed under the plastic in the crawl space.

The outside fan and piping is usually installed in a somewhat hidden location if possible. Sometimes there are options on placement of this equipment, so you want to discuss with the mitigation company what the location options are. Keep in mind that this fan runs all the time. While it’s not much louder than the fan on your furnace, you may not want to listen to it if it’s near your deck.

I’ve not included any of the scientific information on radon in this post. You can read to your heart’s content on this EPA page where there are many detailed articles. You can also view a U.S. map or an Ohio map (scroll down the page to see Ohio map) of radon concentrations.

Read more articles on home inspections.

Copyright © 2008. Reproduction of any portion of this blog post or the images is prohibited by the Digital Millennium Copyright Act. If this post is being viewed on any site other than www.ReesesPiecesOfRealEstate.com then the material has been stolen without permission. Violators will be reported.

Is your pest inspector a little “bug-ey”?

When buyers purchase a home, they can have several types of inspections performed. One of those is a pest inspection which checks for evidence of wood-damaging insects such as termites, carpenter bees and carpenter ants.

If such insects are found, the inspector is to note on the official form whether the insects are LIVE or DEAD, whether they have done any DAMAGE to the home, and whether there is evidence of any kind of TREATMENT having been done to try to control them.

Lots of us have bugs, like those in the photo, in the corners of our basements. Yucky little spiders, little pill-bugs, and fast-moving centipedes. Other than being creepy-crawly, they don’t do damage.

Most pest inspectors will thoroughly check the inside and outside of the home and go up into the crawl space in the basement or the attic, looking for harmful critters. They look into places that homeowners often avoid.

Because they are in these hidden areas, there is a certain level of trust that both buyers and sellers must have in the ethics of the inspector. It’s just too easy for them to “plant” dead bodies to convince the seller to pay for a treatment. After all, with the inspection only costing around $60, but with a treatment costing $200 and up, they make their money on the treatment. The company should do an honest, thorough inspection … not try to solicit extra business in the form of a treatment.

Several years ago I had an experience with a particular inspector who “found” carpenter ants in the home of my seller. The inspector left an invoice for the seller along with a couple partial dead bodies in a baggie. Just as the bugs in the photo, after awhile it’s hard to tell one bug from another when their body has decayed. Well, the inspector picked the wrong seller to try to scam. The seller was a PhD entomologist. He KNEW he didn’t have carpenter ants by the sump pump and KNEW that the partial body was a pill-bug not an ant.

Recently this same inspector was hired to do the inspection for a seller. I alerted the seller to be on the lookout and if the inspector should say that there were damaging insects, that he should be challenged to show evidence and damage.

It seems the inspector hasn’t changed his ways in the interim years. He magically found a dead carpenter ant but could not show any damage or any evidence of live ants. Oh yes … if the seller agreed to have the treatment RIGHT THEN it would only cost $200 but would cost $250 if he had to come back another day. The seller said ‘no, thanks’.

What is sad is that the buyer just spent money for an inspection that is perhaps meaningless. A good rule of thumb when hiring a pest inspector is to inquire whether they also do treatments or if they leave behind an invoice. If the inspector answers ‘yes’ to either question, it might be best to call someone else for the inspection. As a buyer, you want the inspector working for YOU, not focused on trying to scam the seller for additional money.

Read More.

Copyright © 2008. Reproduction of any portion of this blog post or the images is prohibited by the Digital Millennium Copyright Act. If this post is being viewed on any site other than www.ReesesPiecesOfRealEstate.com then the material has been stolen without permission. Violators will be reported.

You know you might be a bad home inspector when …

My apologies to Jeff Foxworthy’s comedy routine, but here’s some hints to home buyers that they may not have picked the sharpest tool in the inspector box when …

  • the inspector doesn’t know how to open the lock box. It’s not ROCKET SCIENCE!
  • the inspector tracks mud in the home because he doesn’t have the common sense to wear the booties that GOOD inspectors carry with them.
  • the inspector doesn’t know that the gas line to the fireplace must be turned on for several minutes to allow the gas to fill the line before trying to light the pilot.
  • the inspector lifts the ceiling tiles in the basement and doesn’t return them to their original position.
  • the inspector doesn’t know how to trip a sump pump to run when it’s not raining. Just because the pump didn’t run while he was there, doesn’t mean it needs replaced.
  • the inspector pulled back the sheer curtains to check the windows and didn’t move the curtains back to their original position.

I recently had an inspector decide that a sump pump wasn’t working. He didn’t move the float to see if it did. He merely looked at the water level and made an assumption. But aside from that, he didn’t bother to call me – the listing agent – to alert me that it might not be working. This was in a vacant home with a finished basement, and rain was forecast. THAT’S TOTALLY IRRESPONSIBLE. Most inspectors would have alerted someone, just in case an inoperable pump would allow water to fill the floor and ruin the carpet and mechanicals.

There are certain inspectors that when their name is mentioned, agents cringe. We know who the bad (inept) inspectors are. We don’t recommend our buyers use them. But since buyers are always allowed to choose their own inspector, sometimes these inept inspectors are hired. The above inspector is one of those that causes agents to grimace. The buyer’s agent didn’t recommend him. The buyers just picked him.

Per the Purchase Contract, the buyers are responsible for any damage done to the home by their inspector. The responsible, professional inspectors carry insurance just in case they do any damage to the home. Buyers would do well to remember that when hiring their inspector.

Read more on home inspectors:

Copyright © 2008. Reproduction of any portion of this blog post or the images is prohibited by the Digital Millennium Copyright Act. If this post is being viewed on any site other than www.ReesesPiecesOfRealEstate.com then the material has been stolen without permission. Violators will be reported.

Buyers … will your home inspector take away your dream home?

He can if he doesn’t know what he’s doing.

The first step after entering into contract on a home is to hire a home inspector and have him or her use their knowledge and their testing meters to determine your future home’s condition. You “trust” that if they’re in the business that they know what they’re doing, don’t you?

Well, that’s not always the case. Some inspectors just don’t know as much as they should about “how things work” or they don’t know local building codes or they allow their PERSONAL preferences to interfere with how they judge a home. Then if you ask for repairs (remedies) of those items noted in the inspection report, it can set the stage for disagreements with the seller. If those disagreements can’t be resolved, the Purchase Contract may fall apart and you won’t get the home you wanted so much.

Here’s some examples that I’ve experienced over the years where an inspector’s errors cost or nearly cost the trusting buyer from buying their home:

  • The inspector said the sump pit was too shallow and should be redone to make it twice as deep as it was and that a new deeper pump needed to be installed. This was on a 2-year old home, built by a major builder, within city limits, that would have had a city inspection for the occupancy permit. A check with the city zoning department confirmed that the pit was OK because the depth is determined by the type of pump installed. In this case, it was a short post pump which allowed for a less deep pit. The city determined there was nothing wrong with the pit or the pump. The inspector just wasn’t up-to-date on the newer building trends nor on city codes.
  • The inspector said the gas fireplace didn’t work because he wasn’t able to light it. In this case, the seller seldom used the fireplace so the gas wasn’t filling the line. The inspector tried to light the pilot as soon as he turned it on, rather than waiting a few minutes for the line to fill with gas. (It was July so the inspector should have ‘assumed’ that it had been a few months since it was used.) The seller countered by letting the line sit for awhile before trying to light it, then I took a photo of the burning fireplace with date/time stamp to prove that the fireplace worked IF one knew what they were doing. This same inspector was unable to open the lockbox and called me to tell me that MY lockbox didn’t work. I immediately drove to the home to investigate and learned that the inspector didn’t know he had to update his keypad in order to have the lockbox allow entry. DUH!
  • On an older home, the inspector said that it should be rewired to put in GFCI outlets. While GFCI outlets are now code, they weren’t a number of years ago. It’s not required to bring an older home up to today’s code (UNLESS new wiring is being done). The inspector should have told the buyers that while GFCI outlets offer a measure of safety, they were not required due to the age of the home meeting the codes at the time it was built.
  • The inspector said that the exterior wood trim at the home’s corners and around the windows, should be mitered rather than butted. This was on a 3-yr old home in a new tract subdivision, priced at $200K. As long as the butted ends are kept painted, this is purely a cosmetic issue. Few buyers of tract homes would want to pay the extra cost to have sub-contractors mitre and caulk wood trim. This Purchase Contract fell apart because the buyer insisted that the seller remove, replace, and mitre all the wood trim on the home. The sellers refused to rebuild the home. 
  • Same inspector and same home as above, said the 3 steps leading from the back door to the ground (that were made of treated lumber) should be power-washed, sanded, and stained. These steps are required by city code for builders to get occupancy permits. The buyer insisted that the requested work be done. The sellers were so mad at the wood-trim request that this cosmetic request just added “fuel to the fire”.
  • The inspector said that wider, commercial-grade gutters should be installed on one section of the home because he thought that the standard residential gutters wouldn’t be able to handle rain run-off … no proof of that … just his opinion. Seller contacted a commercial gutter installer who investigated and basically said the inspector was … well, I won’t write in here what they REALLY said.

Inspectors are hired to judge or determine a home’s health, safety, or structure issues. They are not to give their personal opinion of a neighborhood’s desirability, the home’s price, any cosmetic issues (like carpet condition), or inject their personal preferences for the home’s amenities (like counter-top style).

Also, if the inspector is recommending that too many things should have a “professional” inspection, a red flag – or at least a pink one – should go up. You’ve hired this inspector to be your “professional”. You’ll need to ask yourself if calling in a specialist (like an HVAC company, roofer) really seems warranted or if the inspector is merely saying this to cover his liability. Yes, I know that’s a tough call, but listen to what he/she says and SHOWS you, then decide for yourself.

As a buyer, you should attend the home inspection so you can personally be there to watch how thoroughly the inspector does his/her job, to ask questions on routine homeowner maintenance, and don’t be hesitant to challenge if you begin to feel the inspector isn’t quite up-to-speed on their knowledge. For instance, in the sump pump example above, even though you may not know anything about sump pumps, you should still be able to use deductive reasoning that (1) it’s a fairly new home, (2) built by a major builder who knows the codes, (3) and it would have been inspected by the city for occupancy permit, (4) so why would the city sign off on an improperly installed sump pump? Don’t be afraid to ask the inspector questions such as this.

Naturally, there are times when the inspector’s findings are serious enough to warrant not purchasing a home. But then again, there are inspectors who just aren’t knowledgeable and it would be a shame for this type of inspector to cause you to lose your favorite home.

Keep an open mind!

Be sure to read these articles:

Inspectors in Ohio aren’t licensed

Types of home inspections you can have done

New Builds Need Inspections, too.

Copyright © 2007. Reproduction of any portion of this blog post or the images is prohibited by the Digital Millennium Copyright Act. If this post is being viewed on any site other than www.ReesesPiecesOfRealEstate.com then the material has been stolen without permission. Violators will be reported.